Step into the world of 35mm photography with the Photography Discussion Roundtable, heard every Monday evening at 7:00 PM ET on BrandMeister DMR Talkgroup 31266 — the MichiganOne Nets channel. This engaging net is your chance to explore the art and science of photography, ask questions, and sharpen your skills in a welcoming, knowledge-rich environment.
Hosted by James N8TMP, Bob KB8DQQ, and Rick AD8KN, each brings a wealth of experience to the mic. Bob and James are seasoned wedding photographers, while Rick adds deep technical insight and practical know-how. Together, they guide discussions on camera features, techniques, terminology, and everything from aperture to artistic vision.
Whether you’re just starting out or looking to refine your craft, tune in and join the conversation. Your next great shot starts here.
Long-exposure photography uses slow shutter speeds so moving subjects blur or streak while still elements stay sharp, creating effects like silky water, light trails, or star trails. It is powerful creatively, but it brings practical issues with camera shake, overexposure, and digital noise that photographers must control.
What long exposure is
Long exposure means keeping the shutter open significantly longer than normal, from about 1/4 second up to many minutes, so the sensor records movement over time instead of freezing it. As shutter time increases, more light and motion are captured, which can add drama but also risks overexposed highlights and blurred subjects you intended to keep sharp.
Why it can be a problem
Long exposures amplify small movements, so camera shake, wind, or vibrations can turn the whole frame soft without a solid support. Because the sensor is collecting light for longer, you also get more digital noise, hot pixels, and color shifts, especially in very dark scenes or very long star exposures.
Where and when it’s used
Long exposure is common in landscape work to smooth water and clouds, urban scenes to create car light trails or remove people, and night photography for star trails or Milky Way shots. Photographers often use it at dawn, dusk, night, or in daytime with neutral-density (ND) filters to cut light so shutter speeds can be extended safely.
How to take long-exposure photos
- Mount the camera on a sturdy tripod, turn off image stabilization, and use a self-timer or remote release to avoid touching the camera during the exposure.
- Set ISO low (100–200), choose a relatively small aperture, then slow the shutter until you get the motion effect you want; add ND filters when there is too much light, such as bright daytime scenes.
- Focus and compose before fitting strong ND filters, switch to manual focus, and use bulb mode plus a timer or app for exposures longer than your camera’s standard limit (often 30 seconds).
Hints and tips table
| Situation / Goal | Typical starting settings* | Key gear / technique | Common problem | Quick fix tip |
| Smooth waterfalls / rivers | ISO 100, f/8–f/11, 1/4–2 s in shade. | Tripod, 2 s self-timer; polarizer or light ND filter. | Blown highlights in water | Stop down aperture or add stronger ND; check histogram. |
| Daytime motion blur (cars, crowds) | ISO 100, f/11–f/16, 1–10 s with ND. | 6–10 stop ND filter; manual focus; remote release. | Frame too bright even stopped down | Use darker ND or wait for lower light; lower ISO if possible. |
| Light trails at night | ISO 100–200, f/8, 10–30 s. | Tripod, 2 s timer; cover viewfinder to avoid leaks. | Headlights blown out | Shorten shutter or stop down one stop. |
| Star trails | ISO 400–800, f/2.8–f/4, many 30–60 s frames stacked. | Intervalometer; dark sky away from light pollution. | Gaps in trails or orange sky glow | Use continuous interval shooting; seek darker locations. |
| Static stars (no trails) | ISO 1600–3200, f/2–f/2.8, up to ~10–20 s wide angle. | 500-rule/NPF-rule to limit shutter; manual focus on stars. | Stars smeared into streaks | Shorten shutter time; re-check focus on bright star. |
*Settings are starting points and will vary with light, gear, and creative intent.
Here’s a simple, print‑friendly long‑exposure cheat sheet with just a few starting points you can tweak in the field.
Core setup (all situations)
- Mode: Manual (or Shutter Priority if you’re nervous about full manual).
- ISO: 100–200 (lowest native ISO on your camera).
- Focus: Use autofocus to lock focus, then switch to manual so it doesn’t hunt during the exposure.
- Stability: Solid tripod, image stabilization OFF, 2‑sec self‑timer or remote release.
Cheat sheet: common scenarios
- Smooth water (waterfalls, rivers)
- Light: Shade, overcast, or near sunset.
- Start with:
- ISO 100
- Aperture: f/8–f/11
- Shutter: 1/4–1 second
- If water still looks “frozen”: slow the shutter more (1–2 seconds).
- If image is too bright: stop down (f/11–f/16) or add a light ND filter.
- Light trails (cars, city streets at night)
- Light: After dark, with active traffic.
- Start with:
- ISO 100–200
- Aperture: f/8
- Shutter: 10–20 seconds
- Too bright (headlights blown out): shorten shutter (e.g., from 20 s to 8–10 s) or go to f/11.
- Too dark: lengthen shutter (up to 30 s) or raise ISO slightly (to 400).
- Cloud movement (daytime with ND filter)
- Light: Daytime; you’ll usually need an ND (6–10 stops).
- Start with:
- ISO 100
- Aperture: f/8–f/11
- Shutter: 10–30 seconds (with ND on)
- Clouds barely moving: increase shutter time (toward 60 s).
- Frame blowing out: use a stronger ND or stop down to f/16.
- Starry sky (no trails, Milky Way)
- Light: Dark sky, no moon or small crescent.
- Start with:
- ISO 1600–3200
- Aperture: widest your lens allows (f/1.4–f/2.8)
- Shutter: 10–20 seconds (wide‑angle, like 14–24 mm on full frame)
- Stars look like dashes: shorten shutter (e.g., 20 s → 10–15 s).
- Too noisy: lower ISO one stop and lengthen shutter a bit, as long as stars stay points.
- Star trails (intentional streaks)
- Light: Dark sky, little light pollution.
- Simple beginner method (stacking later):
- ISO 400–800
- Aperture: f/2.8–f/4
- Shutter: 30 seconds
- Take many frames back‑to‑back with an intervalometer.
- Trails too faint: raise ISO slightly (to 800–1600) or open aperture one stop.
Tiny rule‑of‑thumb chart
| Subject / look | ISO | Aperture | Shutter starting point | Quick adjustment tip |
| Smooth waterfall | 100 | f/8–f/11 | 1/4–1 s | Too choppy → slower shutter |
| Night light trails | 100–200 | f/8 | 10–20 s | Too bright → faster shutter |
| Clouds with ND | 100 | f/8–f/11 | 10–30 s | Not enough motion → longer shutter |
| Milky Way (no trails) | 1600–3200 | Wide open | 10–20 s | Trails → shorten shutter |
| Star trails (stack) | 400–800 | f/2.8–f/4 | 30 s (many frames) | Trails too faint → higher ISO |
Simple “what to change first” guide
- Photo too bright:
- Faster shutter 2) higher f‑number, 3) lower ISO.
- Photo too dark:
- Slower shutter, 2) lower f‑number, 3) higher ISO.
- Too much motion blur on things that should be sharp:
- Use a faster shutter, even if that means less blurry water/clouds.
- Not enough motion blur:
- Slow the shutter, 2) use ND filter if you run out of aperture/ISO room.
This is all you really need as a beginner: pick the nearest scenario, dial in the starting settings, take a test shot, then change just ONE thing at a time (usually shutter speed) until it looks the way you want.
Quick checklist to avoid camera shake during long exposures
Quick checklist you can skim in the field:
Before you press the shutter
- Use a solid tripod; fully extend the thicker leg sections first and lock all clamps firmly.
- Turn off lens/body image stabilization when on a tripod to avoid the IS system “hunting.”
- Tighten the tripod head and make sure the camera is balanced (use a tripod collar for big telephotos if available).
Triggering the exposure
- Use a 2–5 second self‑timer or remote release so you are not touching the camera when the exposure starts.
- For DSLRs, enable mirror‑lock‑up (or a dedicated “M‑Up” mode) for multi‑second exposures to avoid mirror slap vibration.
- Gently cover or shade the viewfinder on DSLRs to prevent light leaks that can reduce contrast or create streaks.
Controlling the environment
- Remove or secure the camera strap so it cannot flap in the wind like a sail.
- In wind, stand upwind and use your body as a shield; hang your camera bag from the tripod center column for extra mass (without lifting the legs off the ground).
- Avoid soft or unstable ground; if you must shoot there, keep legs short and spread wide, and wait for lulls in vibration (passing traffic, waves, etc.).
Final sanity checks
- Use the widest lens practical; longer focal lengths magnify any residual shake.
- Use low ISO and review at 100%: check that fixed objects (rocks, buildings, stars in non‑trail shots) look crisp from frame to frame.
- If you still see shake, shorten the exposure time and compensate with a wider aperture or slightly higher ISO while keeping the camera technique the same.
Quiz: Understanding long-exposure photography
- Long-exposure photography primarily involves:
Using the widest possible aperture
B. Using automatic scene modes only
C. Using a slower-than-normal shutter speed
D. Using the highest possible ISO - Which piece of equipment is most critical for sharp long-exposure images?
Flash
B. Tripod
C. Teleconverter
D. Battery grip - In bright daylight, which tool is most useful for achieving multi-second exposures without overexposing the image?
UV filter
B. Warming filter
C. Polarizing sunglasses over the lens
D. Neutral-density filter - Which combination best reduces digital noise in very long exposures?
High ISO and wide aperture
B. Low ISO and shorter stacked exposures
C. High ISO and long single exposure
D. Auto ISO and auto everything - When photographing stars and you see unintended star trails, what is the most likely cause?
Aperture too wide
B. White balance set incorrectly
C. Shutter speed too long for the focal length
D. ISO too low
Answers:
- C(It relies on slow shutter speeds to record motion over time.)
- B(A stable tripod prevents camera shake during long exposures.)
- D(ND filters reduce light so you can lengthen shutter speed.)
- B(Lower ISO and stacking shorter frames helps control noise.)
- C(Earth’s rotation plus too-long shutter creates visible trails.)Simple camera settings cheat sheet for long exposure beginners
Next week we’ll discuss “Enhancing the sky in your photos”
Previous and upcoming Photography Discussion Roundtable topics:
| Date | Topic |
| 8/4/2025 | Welcome to the world of 35mm photography |
| 8/11/2025 | What is Aperture in photography |
| 8/18/2025 | What is the Golden Triangle? |
| 8/25/2025 | Top photo editing software available in 2025 |
| 9/1/2025 | What is Depth of Field? |
| 9/8/2025 | What is Bokeh in photography? |
| 9/15/2025 | Understanding Lens Focal Length |
| 9/22/2025 | What are leading lines? |
| 9/29/2025 | What is Back-Button Focus? |
| 10/6/2025 | 5 important photography facts that I didn’t know when I started |
| 10/13/2025 | How to shoot in manual mode |
| 10/20/2025 | The different types of lenses |
| 10/27/2025 | All about camera filters |
| 11/3/2025 | On-camera flash vs off-camera flash |
| 11/10/2025 | How to use tripods and stabilizers |
| 11/17/2025 | What is ISO? |
| 11/24/2025 | Film vs digital? |
| 12/1/2025 | How to find and organize your photos in a logical manner |
| 12/8/2025 | Understanding long-exposure photography |
| 12/15/2025 | Enhancing the sky in your photos |
| 12/22/2025 | Where and how to learn more about photography techniques |
| 12/29/2025 | DSLR vs mirrorless cameras |
| 1/5/2026 | The exposure triangle |
| 1/12/2026 | How to develop your own personal photography style |
| 1/19/2026 | Color theory (histograms) in photography |
| 1/26/2026 | Photography ethics in the digital age |
| 2/2/2026 | The future of film and where the analog industry is going |
| 2/9/2026 | How to build a portfolio |
| 2/16/2026 | Photography hints and tips |
| 2/23/2026 | How to take action/motion photos |
| 3/2/2026 | Explaining photography terms |
| 3/9/2026 | Macro photography hints and tips |
| 3/16/2026 | Landscape photography hints and tips |
| 3/23/2026 | Portrait photography hints and tips |
| 3/30/2026 | Night photography hints and tips |
| 4/6/2026 | F-stops and how to use them |
| 4/13/2026 | What are the AE-L, AF-L, and *-buttons? What do they do? |
| 4/20/2026 | White balance explained |
| 4/27/2026 |
https://thediabeticham.com/previous-and-upcoming-photography-discussion-roundtable-topics/
